TP valves

The Tank TP valves

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  • #23148
    palerider
    Participant

    Hey everyone, like many of you I’ve recently been introduced to the concept of WH maintenance, and found this site and forum extremely helpful. The overhaul has gone well so far, but the t&p valves I bought at Lowe’s will not stop leaking even after being popped and allowed to reseat numerous times. I’ve had to run hoses straight to the drain. Don’t remember what brand they are off the top of my head, but is there a go-to brand or vendor one would go to for quality construction?

    #23150
    Larry Weingarten
    Participant

    Hello: Try putting a 0 to 200 psi pressure gauge on the drain valve of the heater. It would be nice to know the relief valve is not opening on high pressure. They open on temperature or pressure… Bad ones misbehave whenever they want, but a pressure test will let you know if the valve is bad or if something else is going on. Please do let us know what you find. 🙂

    Yours, Larry

    #23151
    palerider
    Participant

    Roger that, spoke to a plumber friend of mine just a bit ago that said something similar. It’s two 50gal electrics running in tandem, I changed the elements on one but not the other, he said it might be a bad element or thermostat as well. But for the new elements I can’t see why the temp or psi would be different, but the funny thing is just a few weeks ago I had to shut off the water and let it drain out a bit to cap a leaky water pipe, and suddenly we had a bit more pressure after I recharged it, mostly just upon opening a faucet or something, after which it returned to normal. Any ideas there?

    #23153
    KULTULZ
    Participant

    GOOGLE WH Thermal Expansion or the info may be presented here.

    If the system has no expansion tank (or is defective), upon a heating event, the heated water expands and having nowhere to go in a closed system, may trip the TPRV (rated to open @ 150PSI). The leak repair may have made the system tighter and now holds pressure better.

    As suggested, buy a pressure test gauge and mount it on the laundry sink faucet or WH drain and leave it for twenty-four hours to record all hi-pressure events.

    Attached files

    #23155
    Randy Schuyler
    Keymaster

    Also be aware there is a Tanklet in that section of
    Water Heater Rescue that discusses how to test for thermal expansion and what to do to solve it.

    Randy Schuyler

    #23157
    palerider
    Participant

    Roger, thanks for the advice guys. Back to work;)

    #23162
    palerider
    Participant

    Ok, got the pressure gauge and put it on the outside hose bib nearest the main water pipe, and the downstairs shop sink near the water heater. I would’ve put it in the drain valve, but as it’s reading over 140 psi I think the problem is obvious. I opened the screw on the house’s pressure regulator three times, then ran water for a couple minutes and waited. the first time the operating pressure was around 40, but with 10 minutes or so the static pressure came back to 140. I’ve opened the regulator a total of at least five or six turns now, operating pressure is about 22, but the static still returns to 140.

    Question is, is this because my regulator is shot, or because my water heaters (no expansion tank) is just re-pressurizing the system? If it’s the latter, does that mean my thermostats are not shutting off the heat when they’re supposed to, i.e. replace them?

    Help!

    #23163
    KULTULZ
    Participant

    palerider wrote:

    Ok, got the pressure gauge and put it on the outside hose bib nearest the main water pipe, and the downstairs shop sink near the water heater. I would’ve put it in the drain valve, but as it’s reading over 140 psi I think the problem is obvious. I opened the screw on the house’s pressure regulator three times, then ran water for a couple minutes and waited. the first time the operating pressure was around 40, but with 10 minutes or so the static pressure came back to 140. I’ve opened the regulator a total of at least five or six turns now, operating pressure is about 22, but the static still returns to 140.

    Question is, is this because my regulator is shot, or because my water heaters (no expansion tank) is just re-pressurizing the system? If it’s the latter, does that mean my thermostats are not shutting off the heat when they’re supposed to, i.e. replace them?

    Help!”

    It sounds like the PRV is bad, but the pressure check should be with WH power off and it’s water temp @ ambient room temp to exclude the possibility of false readings due to thermal expansion. Take the pressure reading, record, re-power WH and leave test gauge on for twenty-four hours to see if thermal expansion events raises the test reading.

    If your system has a pressure reducing valve, consider it as a closed system and the expansion tank is needed regardless

    When setting the TET air pressure, it has to be either isolated from the system (cut-off ball valve) or no water introduced into the TET to reach proper pressure (2lbs below house pressure).

    Hope that made sense… 😯

    Attached files

    #23164
    KULTULZ
    Participant

    KULTULZ wrote:

    palerider wrote:

    Ok, got the pressure gauge and put it on the outside hose bib nearest the main water pipe, and the downstairs shop sink near the water heater. I would’ve put it in the drain valve, but as it’s reading over 140 psi I think the problem is obvious. I opened the screw on the house’s pressure regulator three times, then ran water for a couple minutes and waited. the first time the operating pressure was around 40, but with 10 minutes or so the static pressure came back to 140. I’ve opened the regulator a total of at least five or six turns now, operating pressure is about 22, but the static still returns to 140.

    Question is, is this because my regulator is shot, or because my water heaters (no expansion tank) is just re-pressurizing the system? If it’s the latter, does that mean my thermostats are not shutting off the heat when they’re supposed to, i.e. replace them?

    Help!”

    It sounds like the PRV is bad, but the pressure check should be with WH power off and it’s water temp @ ambient room temp to exclude the possibility of false readings due to thermal expansion. Take the pressure reading, record, re-power WH and leave test gauge on for twenty-four hours to see if thermal expansion events raises the test reading.

    If your system has a pressure reducing valve, consider it as a closed system and the expansion tank is needed regardless

    When setting the TET air pressure, it has to be either isolated from the system (cut-off ball valve) or not yet installed on bench or water pressure released and TET drained to check previously installed tank.

    (2lbs below house pressure).

    Hope that made sense… 😯

    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    !!! SCREWED THAT ONE UP !!!

    The TET air pressure is set the same as the house water pressure (WH contents set to room ambient air temp).

    I gave the pressure setting for a well pressure tank… 😯

    Getting hard to find good help nowadays… 😕

    #23165
    Larry Weingarten
    Participant

    Hi. There is humor everywhere! 🤗

    #23166
    palerider
    Participant

    yeah I’ve checked it all out, definitely the regulator. they’ve put it in a real fun spot to access and service, plus it’s single union so I think I have to cut the pipe to get it out, I would much prefer not to have to do that, and thought about getting a repair kit to fix it while it’s still installed in the line, but that’s only like$20 or so cheaper than a new, double union regulator, which would be real nice to service in the future, and I’d have to order the repair kit. might have to pull out a chunk of wall to get this all done though

    #23167
    Larry Weingarten
    Participant

    Hello, The union on the reducer can be unscrewed and if there is a little play in the lines, you can then unscrew the reducer. Sometimes when room is tight, I remove the bell shaped housing, if that allows me to unscrew the valve body. Does that make sense? 😎

    Yours, Larry

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