The Tank › sulfur smell in hot water heater
- March 6, 2012 at 2:54 am #18055
Randy, I noticed one poster on a similar thread said he found that Iron Out got rid of his smell.
That pretty much conflicts with the main thrust of this thread.
Do you give much credence to the Iron Out approach, as it’s entirely different from the peroxide or bleach approach?
Last, with peroxide, how long do you leave it in the tank?March 6, 2012 at 9:42 am #18057Larry WeingartenParticipant
Hello: Best is to put peroxide in the tank late in the day, run water at all taps until it just begins to warm, then go to bed. Let it sit overnight if possible and you’re good to go. No flushing needed 😉
Yours, LarryMarch 6, 2012 at 2:57 pm #18059
Any idea how much peroxide for 40g.
Thanks!March 6, 2012 at 8:55 pm #18063
Two pints of drugstore peroxide.
Randy SchuylerMarch 8, 2012 at 10:29 pm #18071geno03245Participant
AO Smith Technical bulletins March 2012:
http://www.hotwater.com/resources/product-literature/technical-bulletins/March 12, 2012 at 10:53 pm #18116
I’m sure the posters here know what they are talking about, and I appreciate all the tips!
Based on AO Smith and another mfg site, I decided to go with bleach. It was not hard, though after letting it sit overnight, it took an hour to run the hot taps to get most of the bleach taste out of the water.
I did run the dishwasher and washing machine twice to try to get the bleach mix to run through those lines too.
We’ll return to the house in 2 weeks and well what we have. (It’s a beach cottage)
Only question I have, is I mistakenly added the bleach to the cold side of the heater, and I know there is a dip tube. I’m hoping that won’t matter.
I just ran the water at each tap initially until it ran hot. If bleach was mostly at the bottom of the heater initially and the discharge is from the top, I worry that the bleach mixture might not have had enough time to get to each fixture since I only ran them for a minute each before shutting down for the night.
Do we think that this bacteria typically extends into every hot water pipe throughout a house?
Sound like a problem based on my approach? We are weary of the rotten egg water!!!!!:shock:March 12, 2012 at 11:55 pm #18118
Think about peroxide next time. It’s a lot easier, works just as well (we DARE you to prove us wrong!) and you don’t have to worry about poisoning yourself. The worst thing that will happen is that you’ll still have odor. But you won’t.
Do remember that these bacteria are quite harmless as long as they don’t party with hydrogen from the anode and sulfur in the water. Then they turn into real stinkers.
Randy SchuylerMarch 13, 2012 at 12:28 am #18120
ok will do next time with peroxide!
Introducing a half gallon of bleach into 40 gallons through the dip tube, entering the bottom of the tank, and then just running each hot water tap for a minute…….do you suppose that any chlorine got to the taps?
If not, then I succeeded in disinfecting the tank…..but maybe not the outgoing pipes.
What do you think?March 13, 2012 at 2:06 am #18121
Funny you should mention disinfection. We just came back from giving a talk to a bunch of water-softening people about odor. They, also, think disinfection. If it were strep, I’d agree.
This is lower-key than that. All you’re really doing is adding oxygen (the 02 in H2O2 in peroxide) to water where anaerobic bacteria live. That kills them. And when you run the water, that deals with the pipes.
If you can’t smell the odor any more, it must have worked….;)
Randy SchuylerMarch 28, 2012 at 5:44 pm #18254
OP here. (of the second phase of this thread)
So far so good. Hoping there is no recurrence.
It was amazing to see how long the chlorine smell stayed around after flushing. We used 3 qts in 40 gal.
No doubt that it’s another reason that some suggest peroxide!:DMay 7, 2012 at 1:27 pm #18411
I have a 1 year old AO Smith 50 gallon water heater (model # OCV 50 200). I am on well water, also softened. I had both wells cleaned but am still having rotten egg smell from all hot water taps. I’ve been told I need a powered anode but I don’t know which one to buy. Please advise.
Thanks.May 7, 2012 at 1:37 pm #18412
Actually, it’s a GCV-50, but anyway, you need an SKU27, and be sure and save the factory anode somewhere. If the heater should prove defective, you’d want to remove the powered anode and keep it to put in the new heater and put the factory anode back in the old so you wouldn’t void the warranty.
Randy SchuylerMay 7, 2012 at 10:38 pm #18415
Thank you! The light is very dim where our water heater is so it’s amazing I got 2 of the 3 letters right.
I’ve placed the order and hope it takes care of the problem. It has certainly been frustrating trying to figure it out. Thanks for your quick reply!
ShaunaMay 13, 2012 at 2:22 pm #18446boaterbobParticipant
Shauna, after you have the powered anode in the tank for a couple of weeks, please post back as to the results.
RobertMay 13, 2012 at 7:47 pm #18449
Will do. Should I put chlorine in the water heater when the original anode is out, before installing the powered anode, or is that a bad idea?
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