The Tank › Replacing water heater
- July 22, 2017 at 10:25 pm #23782rmk9785eParticipant
Until I found and read through this web site, I thought I was one lucky person that my State Industries PRV50 NBRT970 water heater has lasted 20+ years. Somebody must have done something right with it.
Unfortunately, the builder chose to install the water heater in the attic where it is not easily accessible. The house is now rented and I want to do everything I can to replace the WH with one that will give the least trouble.
Should I replace it with a similar model of the same brand and if so, what should I add to improve its longevity?July 23, 2017 at 12:58 am #23783Randy SchuylerKeymaster
Using the link of the left side of the Topics index, click on The Basics and at least read Anodes, Choosing a Water Heater and the Best Water Heater.
Randy SchuylerJuly 31, 2017 at 3:09 pm #23799rmk9785eParticipant
Thank you for the very valuable information. I have read through those pages and learned even more. Here is my situation – This heater is in a rental property in Charlotte, North Carolina while I live in California. So I need to select a water heater remotely and won’t have the serial number of the unit in time to order specific anodes.
I spoke to State Industries customer service and was told they need the serial number before giving me a part number for magnesium anode to order. Their heater model GS6-50-BCT seemed close to what I have now.
I checked specifications on A.O. Smith G9-T5040NV and G12-UT5040NV sold by Lowe’s. Even the 12 year warranty model does not have Magnesium anode. The specs also indicate their inside coating is ceramic (not glass) and I’m not sure if that makes any difference.
Would you need serial numbers to identify the correct anode rods for these models?August 1, 2017 at 1:32 am #23800Randy SchuylerKeymaster
Since you’ve come here for guidance, I can hope you’ll buy any anodes you need from me. Part numbers aren’t needed, really, since the part is generic. Ceramic lining and glass lining are one and the same. I can’t be a hundred percent certain because that model number doesn’t show up in Smith’s online spec sheets, and the Lowe’s page doesn’t even show a spec sheet, but I’m pretty sure you’ll need SKU8 or SKU10. The former if someone can change the anode before the tank is installed. If the installation has 44 inches of clearance above the heater, then SKU8 still; otherwise, SKU10, which is a segmented flexible anode for tight spaces. Order from here: http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/OrderPages/sacrificial-anodes-sales-page.html
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