The Tank › Replacing TPR valve – how much room do I need?
- January 8, 2010 at 9:28 am #12538EEMC2Participant
First off, great site you have here – VERY informative!
I have a 4 yr old Bradford White gas water heater. Just last weekend I performed my first ever preventative maintenance on it, draining several gallons to clear sediment (there was a bunch), and opening the TPR valve to ensure it works. Didn’t check the anode because I want to have a replacement on hand before I pull the old one out.
Anyway, the TPR valve is now leaking, so I’m planning to replace it (going to check pressure first, to eliminate thermal expansion). From the label on the current valve I need a 3″ shank on the new valve. But…I have just over 3″ total from the side of the tank to the wall (pic attached)
Having never done this before, I’m not sure how much room I’ll need to remove the current valve and put in a new one. Will 3-1/2″ be enough? Will I be able to slide this in at an angle before it reaches the point where it needs to line up to the threads?
As this is a gas heater, moving it will be a bear (duct work & all), meaning I’ll probably cut away sheetrock to get the clearance I need or call in a pro. I just don’t want to get started on this only to find that there’s not enough room to do what I need…
Thanks in advance!January 8, 2010 at 12:34 pm #12540Larry WeingartenParticipant
Hello: You see why it’s useful to plan ahead for maintenance when installing a heater 😎 In removing the relief valve, it only needs to come straight out for the depth of the threads (about 3/4 inch); then it can be angled out. (your situation is tight) If there were a way to rotate the tank even only a few inches, it would be better. The relief also needs a simple way to disconnect it from the drain line, which looks like it is hard soldered in place. Draining the tank may allow you to shimmy things to get that valve out if the tank can’t be rotated.
Yours, LarryJanuary 8, 2010 at 2:05 pm #12541EEMC2Participant
Thanks a bunch for your input!
This is a tract home, built during the height of the housing bubble in AZ. This (placement of the WH) is only one of many shortcuts, gotchas, and royal screwups we’ve encountered. At least this is relatively safe, unlike the nail straight through the 50A line running to the A/C unit…
Yes, I’ll get to try my luck at desoldering the copper drain line that was put in place with no thought to ever being removed (it takes about 7 turns before going through that wall…).
Glad to hear that there may just be room to unscrew the current valve and tilt it out. Hopefully it’s not in there too tight, because getting a big wrench on it will be a challenge too.
Thanks again!January 8, 2010 at 9:04 pm #12544Larry WeingartenParticipant
Hello: Once the copper pipe is gone, You’ll be able to use a crescent wrench on the flats of the relief valve 😎 No problemo~hopefully!
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