The Tank › Kinda used water heater
- February 12, 2010 at 7:36 pm #12876
Ok, so I’m cheap, but I hope I’m not being stupid.
I got a 75 gallon GE water heater from an auction house. It was stored outside and, yes, had water in the casing when I picked it up.
Being a WATER heater, I didn’t worry… until I had it home and had a chance to think about it.
Yes, it was a “hot deal” but I may have been, er, *hasty* in the purchase.
So, will a rained on water heater (gas) be ruined by rain or do I have a little leeway for hope here? If I have a chance at salvage, what should I be looking to looking to clean/inspect before attempting to install or use?
It was actually so inexpensive that I can chuck it without too much financial pain, if I am looking at a hideous ordeal to check it out.
Thanks.February 12, 2010 at 10:21 pm #12877
It kind of depends on what got wet. If water ran off the shell, maybe no big deal, but if the control got drenched, then it IS a big deal. Use the Tanklets link at the top of the page and read the one titled When Water Heaters Get Wet.
Randy SchuylerFebruary 17, 2010 at 11:17 am #12919
Well, I had read as much as possible on this site (thanks!) and now, after a lot of research and peering at it, I think I may be OK… Mostly.
It does not appear to have been immersed and the only apparent “damage” is light rust at the nipples, lack of access covers, and a dented base. Oh, the legs are bent so they need replacing since the air inlets are on the bottom!
I discovered that being a display that the dip tube was not present and the fittings were finger tight… Likely just for illustrative purposes. Also, the tank has 1″ IP ports… Do I just bush them or are 1″ dip tubes, etc.made?
Kinda cool since I intend to get your “rescue kit” anyway.
The serial number implies it was made in 2004 but I could be misinterpreting it. It certainly isn’t the FVIR type!
Now I just need to ensure the gas controller isn’t one of the recalled units.February 17, 2010 at 12:50 pm #12921
I don’t sell one-inch dip tubes, but you can probably get one from the manufacturer. You can bush down as long as the plumbing you’re connecting to is also 3/4-inch. Otherwise, there will be a flow restriction that might be noticeable.
Randy SchuylerFebruary 18, 2010 at 10:57 am #12925
OK, I like the rescue kit so if I bush it down, I should choose brass, yes? and what about the “ring” in the inlet, do I need one to retain the dip tube or is it retained in some other manner? My supply is no greater than 3/4″ and the flex pipe looks a lot like 1/2″ to me (memory, did not think to make particular note of it).
I look at the diagrams but they only provide so much detail. Perhaps I should find a dead WH and “have at it” to learn a little more about the details of construction.
I also learned that the first four number digits of the GE water heater are “0599.” Does this really mean it was manufactured in May of 1999 as it implies?
I was able to shine a flashlight in one of the holes and see inside through another. Nice and clean in there with very little debris. I’m getting pretty hopeful!
This forum is GREAT, and thank you very very much for the assistance. I am hoping to never get this in the “horrors” gallery.
I will need to have a plumber involved for “legal” installation but I like to be as prepared a possible and know what is going on so if there is an issue I can make informed decisions. Also, if Mr./Ms. Plumber don’t have to stop every few minutes to dig in the service vehicle for a bit or piece, I figure I will end up paying much less and they will be happier to mess with it.
The info on the vent tube diameter “rule of thumb” when combined with another appliance was VERY eye-opening. makes perfect sense in retrospect, but that would have been a potential issue, fer sure. I checked my current installation and they appear to have done it right so I may be in good shape there too.February 18, 2010 at 12:21 pm #12927
Don’t use brass; use galvanized bushings. You don’t have to worry about the ring because the dip tube and combo anode both have plastic-lined nipples integral to them. The code does mean May 1999.
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