The Tank › Is this 15 yr old Kemore Powermiser 12 shot ?
- March 14, 2015 at 10:36 pm #21790
Should I keep this heater or buy a new one? For maintenance it has a sediment drains of 10 gal twice per year.I just pulled the primary anode and it has 10 inch of wire showing of 44 inch total and 50 % covered in rust. I did not pull hot port anode, since it its hard soldered.
The rust in the water didn’t show until I removed the anode and the cleared after some use. The water never had rust before now, but I would guess there is some tank damage. The burner area shows some rust along the lower seam. This may partly due to water in the basement floor area in the past.
No other corrosion or problems elsewhere and the heater works fine otherwise.
I am willing to put in the time an money for maintenance if the tank is sound. If the heater can be saved, can I get by just replacing the primary anode, t&p valve and ball drain valve?
Please see pics below
https://www.flickr.com/photos/13850164@N02/sets/72157635203670038/March 15, 2015 at 12:15 am #21791Larry WeingartenParticipant
Hello: It would be more of a sure thing if there were more anode left. From the photos, I didn’t see anything particularly scary except that there is little or no sacrificial metal left on the anode. I’ll suggest you replace the anode and do nothing else, (except replace the relief valve) and see how it looks in a year. If it holds up, you likely got to it in time. In worst case the heater leaks and you save the anode for the next tank. 😎
Yours, LarryMarch 15, 2015 at 2:23 pm #21794Randy SchuylerKeymaster
I agree,and I’d also add that anybody with a pre-FVIR tank who has a chance to save it, should, because the new ones are more complex, more trouble, and require regular maintenance of a kind that nobody in America is yet used to.
Randy SchuylerMarch 16, 2015 at 3:17 pm #21797
Well, looks like starting the third load of laundry (about 40 gal per load)the tank could not recover and no hot water. Usually only two loads are done. Stopped the laundry and the tank recovered slowly , but at a lower temp 100 vs 120 f. Second cycle was 110.
The tank started leaking from the flue down the burner area when it could not recover with no hot water. The tank is now not leaking now after recovering and two heat cycles. I checked the anode, inlet, outlet and drain valve. Does this sound like condensation from the cold fill water? The water was rusty, dirty and had smell.March 17, 2015 at 1:53 pm #21803Randy SchuylerKeymaster
It could be that. I’d like to hear what Larry has to say. As to the laundry, you may be expecting too much. But there is also a chance the the dip tube is falling apart. The heater is old enough for that to be a possibility. That can be a simple fix if you have flex lines on the tank; messier if you have to disconnect soldered fittings.
Randy SchuylerMarch 17, 2015 at 3:00 pm #21804
I’ve come to find out there was more than three loads. For the third load the washer was emptied two and half times and then ran out of hot water on that last half fill. Seems OK now and showering is ok, but haven’t tested beyond that. Also, we have very cold supply water this time of year with the external municipal storage tanks.
There are hard soldered connections on the tank. Would I be able to see the dip tube with the primary anode removed and water drained?March 17, 2015 at 4:49 pm #21806w5mtfParticipant
I just rebuilt my 15 years old Bradford White. See my post
Take the anode out, drain the water and get a good flashlight to shine into the tank and to take a looksee through the anode hole. You should see the dip tube , if not then it has gone away.
There are no threaded couplings on your heater to disconnect the water supplies?
I did the job with the help of my son and it took us most of the day. It is something that the mechanically inclined homeowner can do. Just be careful around the gas. If you have any questions about how to shut off your gas, call the professionals.March 19, 2015 at 3:38 pm #21814
The supply connections are the same as shown here on this bw heater in this thread. Unless I am missing something, this type of connection has to be cut apart and soldered to reassemble the same way. http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/4372.html
That is a nice long combo anode you have on the hot port. I like to change mine if I could get to it easily. Is that the only anode your heater has, or do you have a primary in the top part of the tank?March 19, 2015 at 3:38 pm #21815
Deleted duplicate postMarch 19, 2015 at 3:38 pm #21816
Deleted duplicate postMarch 19, 2015 at 7:24 pm #21817w5mtfParticipant
I assume you are talking to me.
It is the only anode on my heater. The old one is 15 years old. I got the anode form this web site. It is magnesium.
I have cleaned out and replaced elements in water heaters before but this is the first time I have taken one all the way down and cleaned out and replaced the elements, anode and dip tube. The only thing that is original on the tank are the thermostats and one element.
I was very surprised it was so easy. It was just time consuming. Of course, mine is electric. But I can’t see how replacing the anode and dip tube in a gas heater would be that much different. If you don’t know how to sweat a copper joint then a plumber is in order.
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