Hydrogen Peroxide

The Tank Hydrogen Peroxide

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    I’m planning to replace the hot water heater, add in a power anode, and sanitize the hot, cold water pipe with H2O2 hydrogen peroxide.

    I would like to know how much H2O2 do I need to add to the water heater. There are 2 H2O2 grade in the market. The one with 3% H2O2 and the one with 35% H2O2. Please help me come up with the right amount for the job.

    I also would like to ask how do you add H2O2 to the cold water pipe to sanitize it.


    Are you sure it was 35% and not 3.5%? It’s rare to see concentrations over 6% sold to consumers. 30% and above are usually “laboratory” grade, and 60% and above are considered “commercial” grade.

    For the grocery / drug store 3% to 5% variety, a couple of pints should work just fine.



    Yup, it is 35% food grade H2O2 at New Leaf Market for $20.

    Thank you, I will return these and get the 3% which is much cheaper.


    I found a web reference to “35% food grade H2O2” that even warns it is considered industrial and may be dangerous to handle at that concentration.


    The “Rotten Egg Odor” tab at the Water Heater Rescue’s homepage has all the details and other tips for this procedure. Good luck and congratulations on fixing it yourself!


    Careful with high concentrations of H2O2. A friend of mine works in textiles where they use 50%. A drop fell on the back of his ear. He did not know what it was that had hit him until it started burning. High concentration is a good oxidizing agent.

    It might be cheaper to buy one bottle of 35% than 12 bottles of 3%. But unless you plan to use it soon it might not pay. The O2 tends to come out of solution once the seal is broken. Then concentration decreases.


    Randy Schuyler

    Hi guys,

    The truth is, you can probably skip the peroxide. I used to tell people who bought powered anodes to use it, just to be safe. But then I started forgetting to tell them. Nothing happened. It’s probably not necessary.

    There is a temptation to view the bacteria as dangerous, but they are not, just odiferous. Once you take away the sacrificial anode, they cease to attract your notice.

    If I turn out to be wrong on this, I’ll have rotten egg on my face.:shock:

    Randy Schuyler


    Howdy y’all from down in South Texas.

    I have a young company called South Texas Groundwater Solutions. We treat rural water with Hydrogen Peroxide.

    When we get a call, the first question I ask is “Does some of your water stink some of the time, or does ALL of your water stink ALL of the time?”

    In some instances, the Hydrogen Sulfide is coming straight from the ground. If this is the case, replacing the anode won’t fix it. Through much research and experimentation, we found that the anaerobic bacteria sometimes will consume all divalent metals down in the aquifer, like iron or manganese. This is important because divalent metals will catalyze the peroxide, or “set off” the oxygen. Without any divalent metals, the H2S and bacteria are still oxidized but it takes time, i.e. a huge storage tank. Also, the end product can be a sulfate which is extremely adhesive and hard to get off the filter. In these cases, we sometimes install an “iron introduction unit” which is nothing more than a filter housing stuffed with steel wool. This is installed BEFORE the injector to introduce iron to the water as a catalyst.

    In other cases, iron and iron bacteria are the culprits. That’s an easy fix for us. The iron sets off the oxygen in a fraction of a second and starts the oxidation process. Iron is transformed to rust immediately and easily caught in a filter, while the bacteria are totally eliminated in all the lines, hot and cold.

    We use 35% Food Grade NSF-approved Hydrogen Peroxide. Because the 35% can be a little bit dangerous to work with, we contain the entire assembly (pump and peroxide) in a 55-gallon drum.

    Does it work? You bet it does. To date, we boast a 100% success ratio.

    Thought you guys might find this interesting.



    I find that very interesting. Rarely does a day go by that I don’t learn something from this forum about the wide variety of water “conditions” across the continent and their most interesting solutions.




    Thanks for the comment and you may view our website by clicking on my profile.

    The link you refer to earlier is in reference to manually adding drops of peroxide to a glass of drinking water to a relatively high concentration and drinking it or injecting it into the blood stream. Our company does not advocate this type of treatment, by FDA rules.

    Our system coordinates injection with water flow and the result is a very minute amount of Hydrogen Peroxide introduced to the water line, much less concentration than pouring two pints of 3% into the water heater (even though we agree that this is a very good and safe instant fix). The desired residual amount of Hydrogen Peroxide in the water to be used is 25ppm for personal consumption, 50ppm for livestock. One ounce of 35% will treat about 100 gallons of water, depending upon the contaminants, to achieve 25ppm.

    This type of treatment is currently being used in California and Florida for taste/odor control in municipal water supplies. The main difference is that the treatment must be followed by either chlorination (yuck!) or UV light. We only treat private water wells in rural areas.

    Glad you learned something today, hope other people did as well. Bleach is out, peroxide is in regarding oxidation and sterilization. Oh, and it doesn’t kill fish either.


    Forgot two points…

    First, hydrogen peroxide water treatment results in clean heating elements, as it strips calcium buildup from them and prevents future accumulation.

    Secondly, you should see what it does for a vegetable garden! Wow! 😯

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