The Tank › Heat trap/insulation
- January 22, 2010 at 6:22 pm #12679
Have a new Triangle Tube Smart-40 indirect, fired by their 110. There is a Honeywell AM series thermostatic mixing valve at the tank. When “hot” all the fittings and tubing atop the tank are equally hot. According to their instructions, the mixing valve is only 9″ above the tank, which seems awfully close.
Question is, is there any way to better trap the heat? Or a better mixing valve to use? The tank has only 3=1/2 feet of 1″ pipe between it and the boiler, what would be the best insulation to use on the copper tube. Any suggestions gladly received.:?January 23, 2010 at 2:25 pm #12685
Hello: Yours is really a question for “The Wall” at http://www.heatinghelp.com. I’ll add two comments though. If there were a heat trap in the line between the tank and tempering valve, it would keep the valve cooler and slow its getting limed up. As for insulation, molded, jacketed fiberglass is the best, while thick foam rubber or plastic is not bad. Whatever, don’t waste time with thin insulation. I’d stick with 3/4″ or better.
Yours, LarryJanuary 23, 2010 at 3:12 pm #12689
Thanks, larry. I hear what you are saying. Which is why I question Honeywell’s AM-series. There placement clearly states “maximun 9″ above the tank.” Not much room for ANY heat trap. I was thinking of the small, dielectric-type of heat trap sold in HD, Lowes, and the plumbing supply houses. But with the tank holding water 140+ degrees, will that work. Perhaps a different brand of mixing valve? Or perhaps piping downward from the tank rather than up toward the ceiling and pipe the heat trap at the same height as the tank top? I am open to any suggestions to solve this issue. Insulation, yes I agree.January 23, 2010 at 3:27 pm #12690
Hello: Heat traps are of two types; a check valve device or simply an upside down”U”. I like the latter as there is nothing to fail, it’s easily made of standard fittings and it works 😉
Yours, LarryJanuary 23, 2010 at 3:43 pm #12691
Thank you for responding so quickly. Piping the inverted “U” heat trap is not really my problem, it’s the lack of space in wich to do it. I just checked the tank and found the hot water “out” pipe is now 115 degrees, as is the air vent. I would like to find a better way to pipe the heat trap or swap out the valve for one that can be placed further away from the tank, which will allow me more space to pipe out a nice heat trap. It is driving me MaD. I installed this indirect tank to SAVE money/heat loss not feel it radiating off my tubing at tank’s top. 🙁January 23, 2010 at 3:57 pm #12692
Hello: I had a look at the Honeywell instructions. They also talk about what to do when the valve scales up, which it’s bound to do when it’s installed so it always “sees” the heat of the tank. I’d call Honeywell and ask about putting in a heat trap. In my mind’s eye, I see the pipe leaving the tank going up as far as it can and then 180 degrees down to the mixing valve. That way, you should be able to get at least a six inch deep trap, which will keep the valve cooler.
Yours. LarryJanuary 23, 2010 at 4:21 pm #12694
I like your thinking, Larry. To me the valve is just too close to the tank. I will call Honeywell 1st thing Monday Morning. I also have a Leonard mixing vqalve, #210, which might accomplish the same for me. I really think the heat trap should come first off the tank. I have tried to send an attachment with this, but it keeps coming back “error” file to large.
Thanks, JimJanuary 24, 2010 at 5:13 pm #12714
How about this, come off the factory installed SS nipples at 90-degrees, then drop down 6 or 8 ” into another 90 across and then 90 up, to create a heat trap keeping the heat trapped low? Not exactly the norm, but will it work?January 24, 2010 at 8:19 pm #12721
Hello: Plumbing being what it is, you can use fittings or possibly just use copper flex connectors. That would be quick, easy and easy to fix should it need it. Flex connectors come from 12″ to 24″.
Yours, LarryJanuary 25, 2010 at 4:38 pm #12735
Well, I spoke to Honeywell and they insist the mixing valve must be within 9″ of the tank’s top–or closer. So I am going to try breaking at a 90* right out of the tank jump up and down and up to create a closer heat trap.
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