Fused Hot and Cold Connections and Anode

The Tank Fused Hot and Cold Connections and Anode

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
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  • #15482
    Jasonrj
    Participant

    I’ve been having trouble with rusty water from my 1 year old GE 40 gal NG WH. After coming across this site I decided to try a powered anode. Upon installation I found the anode to be stuck. After a whole lot of work and trying all of the suggestions found on this site and online I gave up. My next idea was to add a second anode, but found that the hot nipple is also stuck. I don’t want to screw with the gas lines so I am reluctant to disconnect and lay the tank down to get more leverage and I don’t know if that will help. I think I am having a serious problem with electrolysis considering the way the connections have fused and that the anode has questionably failed in only 1 year. Does anyone have any suggestions to get the anode and or hot nipple loose? Or is this a lost cause and I’ve gone through my second GE 40G Powervent in 3 years?

    #15486
    Randy Schuyler
    Keymaster

    Larry might have some ideas when he gets home tonight, but for my part, if you tried a torque wrench and that didn’t work, I don’t know what will. If it really comes down to a new heater, at least the power anode should keep this from happening again. Is it safe to think you might be using a water softener?

    Randy Schuyler

    #15488
    Larry Weingarten
    Participant

    Hello: Can you tell us what tools you’ve tried? Also, have you had any young muscular help or can you find some? 😎

    Yours, Larry

    #15489
    Jasonrj
    Participant

    Haha, I like to think of myself as young and muscular. I was getting help from a friend because of the shifting of the tank. It’s amazing how hard it is to move the full tank, but you put a wrench on it and then you can’t keep it still. I used an 18V impact driver and then tried a 4 foot breaker bar on the anode. Then the best I could do was a pipe wrench on the hot water nipple. I even tried WD40 on both even though it’s not recommended. I also tried to use a second wrench in both cases for leverage due to my wandering tank issue. I guess I’ll get back to my bench presses and curls now.:)

    #15490
    Larry Weingarten
    Participant

    Hello: This is sort of a homemade impact driver, but using that breaker bar and a medium sized sledge hammer has worked well for me. After finishing up your bench presses; I’d use a six point socket, keep the tank full of water and maybe have an old weak guy like me hold the socket nicely in place, pulling on the bar while you use ever increasing force “taps” on that breaker bar. I have broken 1/2′ drive tools, so would suggest using 3/4″ if you have access to them.

    Trick #2 is to use that breaker bar and a second bar about the same length, placed between pipes on top of the heater in such a way that you can squeeze the bars together to break loose the anode.

    Trick #3 is to put a steel bolt that just fits into that pipe nipple so the pipe won’t collapse and use a pipe wrench on it. Use your cheater bar pipe over the wrench to leverage the situation. Preventing the pipe from collapsing reduces the likelihood of it breaking off. Dealing with a broken nipples is not hard, but is another discussion.

    Young and muscular works for a while, but then old with humor becomes a suitable replacement 😀 I remember two anodes that wouldn’t come out of around four thousand. I probably forgot the rest!

    Yours, Larry

    #15493
    Jasonrj
    Participant

    More good ideas. Looks like I need to get back to work. I was really hoping to have an excuse to give up on this water heater and buy new. Thanks for your wisdom!

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