The Tank › Drain Valve Issue
- November 20, 2007 at 11:55 pm #7522DTaylorParticipant
Water is pouring out of my water heater through the relief valve discharge line outside. I replaced the temperature pressure relief valve on the top of the heater and both heating elements. Worked for a few days. Now water is still going through the heater. I turned off the power and the water to the heater to get it to stop. Any suggestions. HELP! (Why is the font so big?)
November 21, 2007 at 8:51 am #7523TomFParticipant
Dunno what’s with the funky fonts. If you replaced the Pressure Relief Valve and water is still coming-out of it, that suggests a thermostat is overheating the water (and the PRV is doing its job). Can you tell the water is super-hot?November 21, 2007 at 11:21 am #7524DTaylorParticipant
No. The water is intermittently (sp) hot. Thermostat is LOW and I just replaced both of the elements. Is there some kind of pressure valve associated with the house? and not the hotwater heater itself.
dtNovember 21, 2007 at 4:36 pm #7527TomFParticipant
Hmmm, why is the water only “intermittently hot”??? If you replaced both heating elements, and there is no timer on the WH, then it should be CONSISTENTLY hot. The internal t-stat should cycle on & off around the setpoint. If you installed the heating elements yourself, are you certain you didn’t bypass the tstat somehow for one or both of these?
What would cause the PRV to pop-off is either you’ve left it open somehow (!), or the t-stat is heating the water too much which expands and activates the PRV. Why did you replace the PRV in the first place?
Now when the WH is cold what I would do is: make sure the PRV is closed, open the watersupply and observe it is not flowing water out the PRV. Then turn-on power and see if it heats-up and THAT causes the PRV to open again.
If there is a backflow device somewhere? Take a look at this page.November 21, 2007 at 5:25 pm #7530Larry WeingartenParticipant
Hello: I’ll vote for thermal expansion as the likely culprit. To be sure however, get a 0 to 200 psi gauge with a hose adaptor on it and screw it onto any hose bibb. I’m assuming the house has a pressure reducing valve or back flow preventer where water comes in. If you find pressure rises quickly when the tank is heating, that’s most likely the problem. The T&P is designed to open at 150 psi. Do let us know what you find.
ps. The gauge is 10 to 15 dollars. Every plumber should have one in their tool-kit, but most don’t 😕
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