CerAnode Powered Anode install on new Rheem Water heater

The Tank CerAnode Powered Anode install on new Rheem Water heater

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    I am replacing my 28 year old water softener, pressure tank and 16 year old water heater in the basement. I had the rotten egg problem and had removed the anode rod to cure the problem as a master plumber I worked with told me that would take care of the problem. Well it worked for 16 years so no regrets on doing that even if it was incorrect.

    The new water heater is a Rheem PROG50-40N RH62. I will be installing all new copper piping from the well to the 44 gallon pressure tank to a whole house sediment filter then to a Clack dual tank softener and then going up to the water heater.

    Since it is a new install what do you recommend for the hot and cold copper piping from the water heater up to the main trunk lines feeding the rest of the house.

    Will I need a expansion tank as I did not have one before?

    Besides the cold water shutoff valve anything else needed to be plumbed in? It is easy to this now so just asking for your opinion.


    Randy Schuyler

    Sometimes taking out the anode doesn’t mean early death for the heater, but a lot of times, it does. I’ve had people who went through four heaters in ten years.

    What are you asking regarding the plumbing? Size?

    You can test for thermal expansion and let that guide you on the expansion tank. Look in Tanklets at Temperature/Pressure Relief Valves.

    Since it’s in the basement, put in a hot shutoff as well. Otherwise, if you ever have to open the heater, all the water upstairs will flow downstairs.

    Randy Schuyler

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