Bradford White Pilot light not staying lit

The Tank Bradford White Pilot light not staying lit

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  • #23032
    mws0019
    Participant

    Pilot light will ignite and stay on as long as I depress the gas control button. Once I let it go, the flame goes out.
    It has a honey well gas control valve and the indicator light will flash twice followed by a 3 second pause.

    Looking in the manual reveals this diagnosis

    Weak pilot signal detected. System
    will reset when pilot flame is
    sufficient.
    Followed by these probable causes
    1. Thermopile failure
    2. Unstable pilot
    3. Pilot tube block or restricted.
    4. Resettable thermal switch has
    opened

    I have another water heater in parallel with this one. My first thought was the thermocouple. Upon checking the mv for the thermocouple on the working water heater and comparing them to the mv on the non working water heater (with the pilot lit by me depressing the button) the millivolts are the same. Does this rule out the thermocouple as the issue?

    thanks for any help offered. I would have already replaced the thermocouple as a trial but it has to be ordered online or purchased from a plumbing store (20-$30)

    #23035
    Randy Schuyler
    Keymaster

    No. 4 might be the cause. Look in your manual for something with the acronym FVIR. There should be a button or something you can press that will reset the mechanism.

    Randy Schuyler

    #23036
    mws0019
    Participant

    I should have mentioned, I already tried to press the button but it was not popped out so nothing happened. I should have mentioned I tried that first.

    #23037
    Larry Weingarten
    Participant

    Hello: It sounds like the thermopile is not working correctly. The instruction mentions thermopile rather than thermocouple. The former puts out a lot more current. Now the thermopile might be fine, but could be too far from the pilot flame, or the pilot orifice could be dirty. Anyway, there are a few things to check out a bit more. Do let us know what you find. 😉

    yours, Larry

    #23038
    mws0019
    Participant

    I pulled everything apart the other day and the thermopile looked to be in close proximity of the pilot. I will check again tonight.

    My question is the following. Does the thermopile lead when heated by the pilot showing similar voltage to the working thermopile indicate that the problem lies elsewhere?

    #23039
    mws0019
    Participant

    I pulled everything apart the other day and the thermopile looked to be in close proximity of the pilot. I will check again tonight.

    My question is the following. Does the thermopile lead when heated by the pilot showing similar voltage to the working thermopile indicate that the problem lies elsewhere?

    #23040
    Larry Weingarten
    Participant

    Hello; They are different animals. Here is a description I found :

    So, I think I’d find the spec for your thermopile and see how it really is performing. 😎

    Yours, Larry

    #24036
    tosheq
    Participant

    I have a similar issue with my Bradford White WH, Model U15036FRN. The pilot lights up, but goes off immediately when I release the button. The green status lights blink once every 2.5 secs, so it was supposed to be normal according to the manual. Additionally, I did the following:

    1. thermopile voltage is 680mV using the close circuit test. This is supposed to be good since the manual says if it is below 300mV, the thermopile needs to be replaced.

    2. I checked the resettable switch and it has continuity.

    What could be the problem?

    thanks.

    #24047
    geno03245
    Participant

    Service manual for the Bradford White atmospheric WH with honeywell gas control:
    http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Bradford-white-service-manual-44943-D.pdf

    #24763
    bedge
    Participant

    I just went though a similar exercise, reporting here in case it helps anyone else. Just wanted to share my zero dollar fix.

    Turned out to be one of the through-post capture connectors on the controller board had broken off the PC board.
    In this case the bottom post, which, I believe is the ground connector.
    Sorry, no pics. was focused on getting it working.

    I ended up fashioning a “wire pyramid” by flaring out some 16 gauge stranded and soldering onto the board where the base of the original post capture connector went.
    Then, cutting the wire about .5″ from the board. That gave me a stranded wire clasp sort of a thing that would contact the post when the board was attached to the valve body. Measure the plastic standoff height in the controller housing so you know how long to leave the wire strands.

    I did have to do the 9v battery trick as well.
    ie: ground on the bottom post and + the each of the top 2. You should hear relay clicks. Didn’t work until I did this.

    Yeah, total redneck tech, but it worked.

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