Well, the first problem is that I can’t get into your shoes. I wear a size 16. I like to go up behind guys your height and say “Hi, shrimp,” and wait for the look on their faces when they turn around. The rest of the time, I’m slamming my head into low objects…..:shock:
Never forgetting my inherit conflicts of interest here, I’ll still say that the powered anode I sell and they sell probably do the same thing, but mine might last longer. An anode that makes a heater last forever is not going to be a good thing for manufacturers who rely on volume just to stay afloat. But that’s just a surmise.
Beyond that, we prefer simplicity. We see the trend toward complexity and only see trouble ahead for the manufacturers. People are not used to having to clean filters on water heaters, or try to decode error signals. You can search on “power vent” here and see a lot of that.
Now, what about going another route? When the mag anodes in your current heater are nearly consumed, why not put the powered anode in THAT? Now you’re down to $230 (not $300, by the way), as opposed to $750.
And another way to look at the energy efficiency is to ask yourself when you’re going to break even. There have been articles that have confirmed that tankless heaters are much more efficient than tank, but they also say they cost so much more that the homeowner will never break even on the investment before the tankless breaks.
My own humble water heater, R-6.7, EF God-knows-how-bad, is now 31 years old and has only required a new thermocouple, a couple of anodes and a new dip tube in that time. That’s what I call a bargain. And I can mostly ignore it and it will still work.