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Products: Anode Extractor

 

  An anode extractor with ratchet and socket Anode extractor in its case
The photo above is the actual tool we sell, in its plastic case. The one at left is one of the ones we've used for servicing water heaters in the past, just to give you an idea of how the tool is used. A 3/4-inch-drive socket goes on the left, while a 1/2-inch ratchet goes on the right. Neither is included with the extractor, as we think many people will already have the ratchet, and only you will know what sockets you'll need for your work.
 
What It Is

This anode extractor was developed using an industrial torque multiplier, which triples the amount of force the user employs through gear reduction. Thus one full turn of the tool generates one-third of a turn on the anode, but at more than three times the force the user expended.

The brass fitting attached to its end braces against a pipe nipple or any other feature on top of a water heater to generate leverage using the tank itself.

Thus, anodes can be removed without electricity and in very tight spaces. A major advantage of this tool over a torque wrench is the degree of control and "feel." If you loosen an anode and the water pressure is still on, you have time to retighten the anode before water fountains all over you and the heater. In the other direction, if you start to tighten a new anode and you have it cross-threaded, you can feel it and stop before you've damaged the threads.

The cost of this tool is mostly a result of the high cost of the parts used to make it.

Return Policy
Merchandise in original condition can usually be returned for a full refund of the purchase price, not including shipping. E-mail mail@waterheaterrescue.com for instructions and authorization.
Details of Use

A half-inch-drive ratchet wrench is needed to operate the extractor, as well as 3/4-inch-drive sockets. Most water heater anodes can be removed with a 1 1/16-inch socket. Those come in six- and 12-point, thin wall and thick wall, short and long and that is one reason we don't include them.

For a residential heater, a short socket is enough. For commercial ones, a long socket might be better, or even extensions might be needed. We carried 4- and 6-inch ones with us when we serviced commercial tanks, just in case.

A 12-point, thin-wall socket may be easier to use in some places, such as where there is a tight access hole in the cover, while a thicker-wall, six-point sometimes is preferable on anodes that are hard to get loose as it is less likely to round off the hex head.

The 12-point can be found in hardware stores like Orchard Supply. Look in auto parts stores for the six-point.

State Sandblasters and some boiler storage tanks have one-inch anodes, for which a 1 5/16-inch socket is needed.

Ordering Details

Shipping is by UPS within the contiguous United States. UPS does not deliver to post boxes. Allow up to a about week for delivery. Hawaii and Alaska are only served by Priority Mail and can use a post box. We do not currently ship this item outside the United States.

If you have any doubts about what you're ordering, be sure and e-mail your questions to us. We want you to order only what you need!
mail@waterheaterrescue.com

 

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Price: $575
SKU26

 
 
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