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What's
Included
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- a .84-inch-diameter by 48-inch (a quarter more anode than
what usually comes with a 6-year-warranty water heater) segmented
magnesium combination (also known as outlet) anode
rod (about 12 inches of overhead clearance needed)
- curved dip tube
- ball-valve drain assembly with cap
- Water Heater Workbook
- pipe thread seal tape
- instructions
- service sticker
This kind
of anode screws into the hot-water port and can either replace
another combo rod or augment a hex-head anode. Fits all residential
water heaters with 3/4-inch plumbing. Anode can be cut to fit
shorter tanks or a link can be snapped off to achieve that. Dip
tube will be custom-made.
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What
Does It Do?
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- The anode
will keep your tank from rusting and breaking.
- The dip
tube and drain assembly control sediment buildup by forcing
water and sediment to swirl around the bottom of the tank and
out.
- The ball
valve has a relatively large diameter opening and a straight
path, which make it harder for big sediment chunks to clog it,
and easier to clear it if they do.
- The cap
keeps the unwary from flooding the water heater space by accidentally
opening the ball valve.
- The tape
will make it easier to get the anode out to check its consumption
down the road.
- The book
will not only guide you to the installation of parts, but help
you understand and resolve other water heater problems.
- The sticker
will help you remember when you installed the parts.
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Tools
Needed
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- Pipe wrench
- adjustable pliers
- drill with 7/8-inch hole saw
- basin wrench
- hammer
- flat-bladed screwdriver.
For further
details, check out the Tools
page and Know-How.
A Warning
If you buy
one of these, don't play with it. These are regular anodes that
have been milled down to the core wire on a lathe. That wire can
be bent and straightened about three times, then it snaps.
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Ordering
Details
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The products
offered here are designed to make water heaters last longer, or
solve specific problems. Installation is potentially do-it-yourself,
but if you have the least doubt about your abilities, we suggest
that you obtain expert help.
This page
is for shipping to ALASKA or HAWAII by Priority Mail. If
you are in the continental United States or Canada, go back to
the main cart and order
from there or the details page for your area.
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Important:
Before You Order
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1. If you
contemplate adding an anode to a new tank, things have gotten
complicated recently. The combo anode will not work in
heaters made in 2005 or later by Rheem/Ruud/Richmond/GE. Also,
if there are two anodes in a tank, they need to be of the same
metal. Otherwise,
the magnesium rod will be consumed more
rapidly in the presence of an aluminum one and
you won't get as long a life. On the other hand, if the tank is
five years old or more, having dissimilar metals is less of an
issue, since the original one will likely be largely consumed.
All the lower-end heaters by A.O. Smith, American, State, Kenmore,
Whirlpool and Maytag have aluminum anodes. We've thought about
stocking aluminum combo rods, but we've preached against aluminum
for 15 years and won't change now just to make a buck. You still
have the option of removing the aluminum hex anode that comes
with the tank and installing two magnesium anodes. A plus is that
ours are thicker than factory ones.
2. Measure
your water heater from the top to the drain valve and send the
measurement to us at mail@waterheaterrescue.com. There are
a few tanks that are shorter than average that require a shorter
curved dip tube. Also tell us the brand of your heater.
3. If you're
getting a maximum-insulation tank, as we recommend, tell us so
that we can include a 4-inch drain valve nipple.
If you
have any doubts about what you're ordering, be sure and e-mail
your questions to us. We want you to order only what you need!
mail@waterheaterrescue.com
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Return
Policy
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| Merchandise
in original condition can usually be returned for a full refund
of the purchase price, not including shipping. E-mail mail@waterheaterrescue.com
for instructions and authorization. |
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| SKU4,
$141,
shipping included
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